![]() ![]() This was my favorite fuel for SAM competition so I outfitted all my best engines with them. Vic also used to make Aluminum fuel bowls and precision fine thread needle valves so you could easily run Methanol. Water Pump, Engine Type 217 Mini Twelve Chain Saw, Type 254 Engine, Type 183 Mustang Chain Saw, Type 185 Amp Champ Model 4, engine Type 122 Durby. Its perfect to run these old timers with. He was one of the only places that would sell Pennzoil 70wt ashless aircraft oil by the quart. I talked with him several times before he passed. I'm really looking forward to it, but it ain't 8am yet, and I have to wait for a reasonable hour when I can make a bit of noise. PS: I've just overhauled the timer assembly on one of the first Ohlsson Miniatures. The Art Gross gentleman mentioned may have been well-known in the area where he lived/operated, and anyone who does good things to old engines has my greatest respect but, internationally, I've only ever heard of Vic and George as Ohlsson references. I'm a long-time Ohlsson collector and, before George, the late Vic Didelot was the acknowledged source for all things Ohlsson, including rebuilds, but that's going back 30 or 40 years. #Ohlsson and rice chainsaw driverMy biggest problems will be getting replacements for the prop driver and washer, parts like that just don't seem to be being reproduced yet, and also, if it is the early version with a rubber gasket between head and cylinder, and it's leaking, it's virtually impossible to replace due to the staked together head and cylinder.Yeah, I agree. I can get a new contact breaker assembly for about 5 times what I paid for the engine, but at least they ARE available! There is certainly no need to go back to the rear inlet setup to run it as a spark ignition. Enjoy the hunt.Īs far as my reading so far goes, the front rotary setup was at first a factory "aftermarket accessory" in that you bought a kit of the altered crankshaft and the front section of the crankcase, plugged the rear inlet and replaced the contact breaker assembly on the new front end (see photo) Wheter the internal porting would match, I haven't a clue.ĭon't let me disparage your quest for the correct parts. You'll also need a "sparker" crankshaft as a front rotary uses a different crank. If you intend to convert it back to spark you'll need to ditch the front rotary and go back to the rear intake system. It appears the the engine shown has had front rotary attached and is therefore incorrect for a "sparker". 23 front rotary which was a new concept for the time replacing the rear intake used previously. My first model aircraft engine was a new circa 1952 O&R. Yes, thanks Puffie, that's a good idea about trying it out as a glow, one thing that is worrying is whether it has the early rubber seal between the head and the cylinder, I read that they are prone to leaks, and are nearly impossible to repair because of the "staked" head/cylinder, I just hope it's the later alloy one on this, just have to wait and see! Good tip about removing the piston, and thanks for the detail about the piston baffle position, I'd have been sure to put it back the wrong way round! This corporate entity was filed approximately seventy-six years ago on Wednesday, as recorded in documents filed with California Secretary of State. Spark coils are all the same, but if you want to throw this on a plane, you could look at spark coils for chainsaws, as they are pretty compact. filed as an Articles of Incorporation in the State of California and is no longer active. might be a way to try it out while you are looking for ignition parts. The only difference I can see between the O&R spark and glow models is a plastic spacer where the points went and a glowplug on top. the piston has a deflector bar on it, and the narrow end need to point towards the intake, or AWAY from the exhaust. to remove the piston, twist the piston 90 degrees and pull it out from the bottom. they were spot welded together during manufacture so they cannot be taken apart. Puffie40 wrote:I can give you a little bit of advice, as I have dismantled our O&R 29 a couple of times: ![]()
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